Frequently asked questions.

Low water pressure usually comes from one of a few things: a partially closed shutoff valve, mineral buildup in your fixtures or pipes (common with Utah's hard water), a failing pressure reducing valve, or a hidden leak. If it's only at one faucet, it's often the aerator; if it's the whole house, it's worth having us take a look. We'll track down the cause and get your pressure back to normal.

A few likely culprits: your household demand has outgrown the tank size, sediment has built up in the bottom of the tank and is stealing capacity (again, Utah's hard water), or a heating element or dip tube is failing. Flushing the tank helps in some cases; in others it points to a repair or a right-sized replacement. We'll test it and give you an honest recommendation.

A good rule of thumb: if your water heater is under 8 to 10 years old and the fix is minor, repair usually makes sense. Once it's past that age, leaking from the tank, or needing repeated repairs, replacement is often the smarter money. We'll show you the trade-offs and the upfront cost of each so you can decide with clear eyes.

A traditional tank water heater typically lasts 8 to 12 years, and a tankless unit can go 20 years or more with proper maintenance. Utah's hard water can shorten that lifespan, which is why regular flushing on a tank, or descaling on a tankless, matters. If yours is getting up there in age, it's smart to plan ahead rather than wait for a cold-shower surprise.

A tank water heater keeps a reservoir of water hot and ready, which is simple and lower cost up front. A tankless (on-demand) unit heats water as you use it, so you get continuous hot water, a smaller footprint, and lower energy bills, at a higher install cost. We install and service both, and we're happy to talk through which fits your home and budget.

A sudden jump usually means water is going somewhere it shouldn't: a running toilet, a dripping faucet, an irrigation issue, or a hidden leak in a line. A running toilet alone can waste hundreds of gallons a day. If your usage spiked without an obvious reason, give us a call and we'll help find the source.

Recurring clogs usually mean more than a surface blockage: grease buildup, hair, mineral scale, root intrusion, or a deeper issue in the line. Store-bought chemical cleaners can actually make it worse over time. We'll clear it properly and check whether something further down the line is causing it to keep coming back.

They're different tools for different jobs. Drain snaking is great for punching through a specific clog fast, while hydro jetting uses high-pressure water to scour the entire inside of the pipe, clearing grease, scale, and roots and leaving the line much cleaner. For recurring or stubborn clogs, hydro jetting usually gives a longer-lasting result. We offer both and will recommend the right approach for your situation.

First, shut off your home's main water valve to stop the flooding, then turn off the water heater. Move anything valuable away from the water, and be cautious if it's near outlets or your electrical panel. Then call us right away, we'll prioritize getting a technician out and help you limit the damage in the meantime.

A toilet that runs constantly is almost always a worn flapper, a faulty fill valve, or a float that's out of adjustment. It's a small part, but it can waste a surprising amount of water and money. It's usually a quick, inexpensive fix, and we're glad to take care of it.

A steady drip is typically a worn washer, O-ring, or cartridge inside the faucet. It seems minor, but it wastes water and that constant moisture can lead to bigger problems. We can swap the worn parts or replace the fixture and stop the drip for good.

A sewer smell usually points to a dried-out P-trap (common in a drain you rarely use), a loose or failed toilet seal, or a venting problem in your drain system. Sometimes it's as simple as running water to refill a trap; other times it needs a closer look. If the odor sticks around, let us diagnose it before it becomes a bigger issue.

Utah has some of the hardest water in the country, so for most homes a softener is well worth it. Hard water leaves scale in your pipes and water heater, spots your dishes and glass, dries out skin and hair, and shortens the life of every appliance that touches water. A softener protects all of that. We can test your water and recommend the right system for your home.

Most water softeners run well with an annual check, plus keeping the salt topped off in between. Given how hard Utah's water is, a yearly service keeps it working efficiently and catches any resin or valve issues early. We can put it on a simple maintenance schedule so you don't have to think about it.

A pressure reducing valve lowers the incoming water pressure from the city main to a level that's safe for your home's plumbing, usually around 50 to 60 psi. When a PRV fails, you'll notice pressure that's too high (hard on fixtures and pipes) or too low. Most last several years; if yours is showing its age, we'll test your pressure and replace it if needed.

A backflow preventer keeps used or contaminated water from flowing backward into your clean drinking water supply. It protects your household's water and is required by code in many situations, especially with irrigation systems. We can install, test, or replace one to keep your water safe and your system up to code.

Yes. Older polybutylene and galvanized pipes are known to corrode, restrict flow, and fail over time, so replacing them with modern materials is a smart upgrade. We'll assess your existing lines and walk you through a repipe plan with upfront pricing before any work starts.

Start with the basics: make sure the thermostat is set to heat and above the current room temp, and that the filter isn't clogged (a dirty filter is a surprisingly common cause). If those check out, it could be an ignition, flame-sensor, or gas-supply issue. If the house is cold and you can't get heat, give us a call and we'll get you scheduled quickly.

That's called short cycling, and it usually points to a dirty filter, restricted airflow, an oversized furnace, or a thermostat or flame-sensor issue. Besides being annoying, it wears the system out faster and drives up your energy bills. We'll find out why and get it running in proper, steady cycles again.

For a standard 1-inch filter, every 1 to 3 months is a good habit, more often if you have pets or anyone with allergies. Thicker media filters can go 6 to 12 months. A clean filter is the single easiest thing you can do to protect your furnace and keep your air clean, so it's worth staying on top of.

With regular maintenance, a furnace usually lasts 15 to 20 years. As it reaches the upper end of that range, you may notice higher bills, uneven heating, or more frequent repairs. If yours is aging, we'll help you weigh keeping it running versus upgrading to a more efficient system.

If your furnace is under about 15 years old and the repair is straightforward, fixing it usually makes sense. Once it's older, needing pricey repairs, or struggling to keep the house comfortable, a replacement often pays for itself in efficiency and reliability. We'll give you honest numbers on both so it's your call, not a hard sell.

The right size depends on your home's square footage, insulation, windows, layout, and our Utah climate, not just a rule of thumb. A furnace that's too big short-cycles and wastes energy; too small and it can't keep up on the coldest days. We'll do a proper load calculation and recommend the correctly sized system for your home.

Uneven temperatures usually come from things like blocked or leaky ductwork, a closed or dirty vent, poor insulation, or a room that's simply far from the furnace. Sometimes it's a quick fix, and sometimes it's a comfort or airflow issue worth solving properly. We can pinpoint the cause and suggest the best way to even things out.

An annual tune-up before winter goes a long way: cleaning and inspecting the burners, checking the heat exchanger, testing safety controls, replacing the filter, and making sure everything runs efficiently. Regular maintenance prevents most mid-winter breakdowns and helps keep your warranty valid. It's included in our WOW Maintenance Plan, which makes staying ahead of it easy.

A few common causes: the thermostat is set wrong, the air filter is clogged, the outdoor unit is dirty or blocked, or the system is low on refrigerant (which usually means a leak). Low refrigerant and electrical issues need a professional. If your AC is running but the air isn't cold, give us a call and we'll get it diagnosed.

Ice on your AC usually comes from restricted airflow (a dirty filter or blocked vents) or low refrigerant. When it freezes, turn the system off and let it thaw so you don't damage the compressor, then check your filter. If it keeps happening, it needs a technician, running a frozen system can cause expensive damage.

Once a year, ideally in spring before the summer heat sets in. A yearly tune-up keeps it cooling efficiently, catches small problems before they become breakdowns, and helps it last longer. It's part of our WOW Maintenance Plan, so it's easy to keep on schedule.

A well-maintained central air conditioner typically lasts 12 to 15 years. As it ages, you may see rising energy bills, weaker cooling, or more frequent repairs. If yours is in that range and starting to struggle, we'll help you decide whether to repair or upgrade.

If your AC is under about 10 years old and the repair is minor, repair usually wins. If it's older, uses the older R-22 refrigerant, or needs a major fix like a compressor, replacement is often the better long-term value, especially with the efficiency gains. We'll lay out both options with upfront pricing.

Different sounds point to different issues: buzzing or clicking can be electrical, grinding or squealing often means a motor or bearing, and rattling can be a loose part or debris. Odd noises are your system's way of asking for attention. It's best to have it checked before a small problem turns into a bigger one.

In summer, around 75 to 78 degrees when you're home is a good balance of comfort and efficiency, and setting it a few degrees higher while you're away saves noticeably on cooling costs. A programmable or smart thermostat makes that automatic. We're happy to recommend and install one if you'd like.

A few things help a lot: change your filter regularly, keep the outdoor unit clear, use a programmable thermostat, seal leaky ducts, and get an annual tune-up so the system runs at peak efficiency. Small habits add up over a hot Utah summer. We can also spot efficiency issues during a maintenance visit.

Every 1 to 3 months for a standard filter is a good rule, more often with pets or allergies. A clean filter keeps airflow strong, protects the system, and improves your indoor air. It's the easiest, cheapest thing you can do to keep your AC and furnace happy.

Utah's air is famously dry, especially in winter, and that shows up as dry skin, static, cracking wood, and irritated sinuses. A whole-home humidifier adds balanced moisture to your air through your HVAC system, which is more effective and lower-maintenance than portable units. We can evaluate your home and let you know if one makes sense.

It depends on your priorities and your system. A basic filter protects the equipment; a higher-MERV or media filter captures more dust, allergens, and fine particles for cleaner air. The trick is choosing one that filters well without choking your system's airflow. We can recommend the right fit for your equipment and household.

UV purifiers installed in your HVAC system help control mold, bacteria, and other microorganisms on the coil and in the air moving through it. For households concerned about allergies, odors, or air quality, they can be a worthwhile add-on. We're happy to talk through whether it's a good fit rather than sell you something you don't need.

It can. Dust, allergens, mold, dry air, and poor ventilation can aggravate allergies, asthma, and sinus issues, and we spend a lot of time indoors, especially in winter. Good filtration, humidity control, and regular HVAC maintenance all help. If anyone in your home struggles with air-quality symptoms, we can suggest practical improvements.

Hard water is water with a high mineral content, mainly calcium and magnesium, and Utah has some of the hardest water in the country. As it moves through the ground it picks up those minerals, which then build up in your pipes, water heater, and fixtures. That's why you see spotting, scale, and appliances that wear out sooner here.

They solve different problems. A softener removes the hardness minerals that cause scale and spotting, while a whole-home filtration system targets things like chlorine, sediment, taste, and odor. Many Utah homes benefit from both. We can test your water and recommend what actually fits your situation, no guesswork.

Reverse osmosis is a filtration process that pushes water through a fine membrane to remove a wide range of contaminants, leaving very clean, great-tasting drinking water. RO systems are usually installed under the kitchen sink for your drinking and cooking water. If you want better-tasting water at the tap, it's a popular and effective option we can install.

For most reverse osmosis systems, the pre- and post-filters should be changed every 6 to 12 months, and the RO membrane every 2 to 3 years, depending on your water and usage. Staying on schedule keeps the water tasting fresh and the system working properly. We can help you keep track of it.

It depends on the problem, the parts involved, and how much labor it takes, so there's no one-size price. What we can promise is upfront pricing: we diagnose the issue, explain your options, and give you the cost before any work begins, so there are no surprises. For many installations and replacements we provide a free estimate.

Yes, always. You'll know the price before we start the work, not after. We walk you through what's needed and what it costs so you can make the decision that's right for you, with no pressure and no hidden fees.

Many common repairs are done in a single visit, while larger jobs like a water heater or full system replacement may take longer or need parts ordered. When we give you your estimate, we'll also give you a realistic timeline so you know what to expect. We respect your time and work efficiently.

Absolutely. We treat your home with respect, protect your floors and surfaces, and clean up our work area before we leave. You shouldn't be able to tell we were there, except that the problem is fixed.

Yes. We stand behind our workmanship, and labor warranties vary by the type of service. Eligible equipment and parts are also covered by manufacturer warranties. We'll clearly explain what's covered on your specific job before we begin.

Turn off the water supply to the heater, and shut off its power, flip the breaker for an electric unit, or set a gas unit's valve to off. If it's leaking a lot, shut off your home's main water too. Then call us, a leaking water heater usually needs prompt attention and we'll get you on the schedule as fast as we can.

Find your main shutoff valve, usually where the water line enters your home, often in a basement, crawl space, garage, or near the water heater, and turn it clockwise until it stops. It's worth locating yours now, before an emergency, so you can act fast if a pipe ever bursts. We're glad to point it out during a service visit.

Stop using water in the house right away, since every flush or drain adds to the backup, and keep people and pets away from the affected area because sewage is a health hazard. Don't try to force it with chemicals. Call us and we'll get a technician out to clear the line and figure out what caused it.

Treat it as serious. Leave the home right away, and don't flip light switches, use your phone, or do anything that could create a spark while you're inside. Once you're safely outside, call your gas utility's emergency line or 911 first. After the leak is confirmed safe, a professional can handle any needed repairs.

First check the simple things: thermostat set to heat and above room temp, the furnace switch and breaker on, and a clean filter. If it still won't run and the house is getting cold, keep warm and call us, we prioritize no-heat calls during our hours and will get to you as soon as we can. Used safely, a space heater can take the edge off in the meantime.

Check that the thermostat is set to cool, the breaker hasn't tripped, and the filter isn't clogged, then give the system a few minutes. If it's still not cooling, close the blinds, run fans, and stay hydrated to keep comfortable while you wait. Call us and we'll get you scheduled quickly, no-cooling calls during a Utah heat wave get priority.